It all started on a cool January morning, 27th to be precise, the date of journey for a week long trip to Himalayas from Chennai. The original plan was to revolve around the Panch Prayags popularly known as the confluence of rivers which forms the majestic Ganges and if possible to touch Auli. In reality I have never heard the name Auli ever in my life, but the idea of skiing in India did give my real shivers.
The trip started in the best way possible when my friend ‘R’ forgot the jacket which is a must when you are travelling to the North especially early in the year. He nevertheless managed without the same through out the journey, thanks to sweaters and multiple layered clothing. One big heaven of thanks to the authors of ‘Outlook Travellers Gateway – Uttarakhand’, without which the trip would have been a writing on the water.
Route: Chennai -> Delhi T3; Delhi ISBT -> Haridwar -> Rishikesh -> Rudra Prayag -> Karna Prayag -> Joshimath (6,000 ft) -> Auli (10,000 ft) -> Joshimath -> Vishnu Prayag -> Joshimath -> Dev Prayag -> Haridwar -> Old Delhi Rly station -> Delhi T3 -> Chennai
Day 1 – Jan 27
Luckily the flight to Delhi was on time on a not so foggy morning and no problems with the luggage as it was at Terminal 3, the better ones you can ever find in India. We were in no mood to waste time and so took a direct cab to Kashmere Gate, ISBT (Inter State Bus Terminals) to board a bus for our first pit stop which was Haridwar. It is supposedly 220 kms on road and it takes around 5 – 6 hours, I did hear by cab we can reach in around 4 hours. We found a bus which was leaving the terminal as soon as we reached, though there are many agents around pestering you to take the other so called comfy buses, do not fall for any trap. The government buses are far reliable, though you wont feel the same by the look of it. It was around 12 when we boarded the bus and by some thinking we bought few biscuits and water for our journey which was our saviour for the day and all through the trip.
Time Travel – I am sure this will be hard to believe, we covered 60 kms in the first 2 hours when we reached Meerut at around 2p.m., as it was supposed a highway which was clogged with people all way through. The stoppage was around 15 minutes a welcome break for all with the cramped seats. The next stop came in the couple of hours where we had our lunch which is couple of glasses of Musambi / Orange juice, the best I have ever had in my life so far (mind you no sugar J). We set foot in Haridwar at close to 6 p.m. and we had our first view of the ganges flowing through the city. We fell for a charm from a rickshaw man and shelled out 900 for a room out there, which was not bad but for this season it is expensive. This was our first lesson here and made sure we go to GMVN guesthouse for the rest of the journey - Cheap, Best and Reliable. We heard the famous ganga arti would be over by know, stretched out a bit and went for a long walk to Har ki paudi – the place where they perform Aarti and where the temples are located. It was close to 2 kms and colourful all way through, we had chaat on route – some solid food since boarding the flight and kept walking. The first sight was amazing, the sound of ganges, the chill, the atmosphere. The day ended soon with dal fry and phulkas, our diet for the next 7 days. We decided call the day off at around 9 pm in order to start the next day early and not before we tasted a sour UP Pan.
Day 2 – Jan 28
What’s supreme than a hot water bath on a cold chilly day. That’s exactly how the day began. Our first stop was to a hill top temple Mansa Devi Mandir via a cable car which is an enchanting experience, for the beauty of the hazy city can be seen all the way through. We left not before tasting a different fruit called ‘Ram Phal’, which costs around 10 rs per portion. We moved on to the Har –ki – pauri which is the focal point of Hardiwar for the dip in ganges. Even through the cold weather I was adamant on the dip and nevertheless took the same. It was an enchanting experience; I am still clueless on how I took the same. We continued our sight seeing for some more time visiting few temples in the vicinity and it was time to bid adieu to Haridwar. Our lunch was at a dosa place, who served hot oil less Dosas for a premium. But so was the taste. At around 2 p.m we took a bus to Rishikesh which is around 30 kms from Haridwar and it take an hour. This time we didn’t fall for any charm, we walked for some time near Rishikesh bus stand and took an auto to Sivananda Ashram, as we heard a lot of good about this place. But apparently we need to book the rooms here earlier, so moved to Omkarananda ashram nearby and lucky enough to get a beautiful room on the bank of ganges. It was around 4 p.m. when we decided to take a dip in the ganges of Rishikesh, this is very shallow to start with unlike Haridwar. It was almost like an ice bath in near freezing temperature, again the dip of a life time.
As we were clueless what to do next, we enquired about the place and paced our walk around Ram Jhula the temple nearby and all the way through to Laxman Jhula which is around 2 kms. On route we had a little treat in a German bakery in the form on cookies. This place seems to have more foreigners than Indians. We were bit late for the Evening Aarti, but still was a part in the final 15 minute chorus of bhajans and chanting. We had a very early dinner at around 7pm and classy affair all the way and I had one of the most blissful sleep ever in my life at the Ashram. Remember most of the hotels and food stalls close early, so it’s always good to have some back up in the form you need J.
Day 3 – Jan 29
This day was our first step towards the Panch Prayag, meaning 5 confluences of rivers. We decided to do the farthest one at earliest, as anyway the journey through out the mountain roads are treacherous. The distance from Rishikesh to Rudraprayag (which is the second of the prayag) is around 140 kms. On route to the bus we saw stopped over at a south Indian Balaji mandir, where the morning 8 am rituals for going on. We took a 9 am bus which was the only morning available bus (make sure you check before hand, if you are travelling J)) . It took around 2 ½ hours for our first break, the town of Dev prayag (the 1st of the Panch prayag). We had decided to have the prayag while returning, so after a 15 minute break, we were off to Rudraprayag via Shrinagar, yet another beautiful place and people. The scenery all way through is the only solace. In between we had a closure of roads due to land slide, but once again the place takes all the pain away. Close to 3 pm we were at Rudra prayag and without food, but we kept walking ,a long hike through a bridge and a steep ascent to the temple and even worse steep descent to the rivers. The music of water and the sight was mesmerizing; the water was in aqua blue color – the one you could see in swimming pools. After some considerable time we move to karma prayag which is around 35 kms from here. After asking bus and cab fellows, we boarded one close to 5 pm and we were around 15 people in 1 tata sumo, as it seems no vehicles ply in the night, meaning after 6 pm. We were waiting to get out of the cab, and it happened close to 6 pm.
We directly ascended to the temple and then descended to the rivers, and it became dark with in a matter of 30 minutes. Still the music of water clashing and chilly water gives the best refreshment. We took a room at GMVN for the night, which was on the banks. We even had a balcony and still silence could hear the river flowing. The first proper food for the day came that night in the form of roti and sabji. And it was all over for the day; a bit of shrill went through my body in wondering how much more steam is still left for further strenuous travel.
Day 4 – Jan 30
With no interest to get up from bed, but eventually had to as our morning bus to Joshimath was at 8 am. We had a lovely English breakfast in the room and left for our further ride. The morning vision of the prayag was even more beautiful. The distance is around 90 kms. Within the first hour we saw the first sight of snow capped mountains, that kind of rejuvenated. But it took around 2 hours to reach the first 40 odd kms, so the strain was not getting over and it was getting colder. Some where in the early afternoon we reached Joshimath, not before encountering the craziest kind of Himalayan serpentine roads, gorges and ravines. Headed straight to GMVN again and head a nice steamy tasty lunch. As luck would have it the usual cable car to AUli which is only around 20 kms by road was getting serviced. We took a cab for around 1400 Rs for a to and fro trip and an 2 hour long wait there. The climb was like we were going straight up, almost like vertical. The view got more beautiful all the way through and there I saw the snow for the very first time, a milky patch of ice on top of a leaf, tree, on the sides of the roads. Near to the destination point it had even started to snow and a minor traffic jam as a tata indica got stuck in the icy roads. We got down for a short interval to feel the ice and to have a snow shower.
We headed straight to the place where they were skiing and as soon we were there, couple of instructors asked for our shoe size so they could bring the kit. We spent around an hour getting instructions on skiing and trying a few bit in the snowy picturesque milky white slopes of Auli. The view was heavenly, as we could have seen the second tallest peak in India, Mt. Nanda devi if not for the cloud cover, I think that’s not unanticipated as we were over 10000 ft above sea level. An hour of skiing was itself a bit tiring and we took of for overhead sight seeing in the cable car which covers around a distance of 500 metres one way. I was Astounded when I saw a tea stall at this place. Soon it began to snow and we decided to move back to Joshimath but before we had a chilled Coke out there. After a few minutes rest, we headed to the Adi Shankaracharya ashram which is one of the 4 centres he had established; there is even a Kalpavriksh, wish fulfilling tree. The entire place is surrounded by high peaks and it’s blissful to say the least. From there we went to Narsingh mandir, which is one of the proclaimed temples in India where we even found a script written in tamil in the altars. The day came to a close but not before a rare once in a life time experience, we saw a star move through the sky, it traversed through the entire sky – a WOW experience. With this in mind, the day came to a close with a nice hot dinner and getting tucked under a much need blanket.
Day 5 – Jan 31
We were off to a very cold morning, with the hot water not hot enough, we they were fuming, but in a matter of seconds they just turn cold. Somehow post taking a warm bath, we headed to Vishnuprayag which is like 20 kilometres from here and it was Indo – China border region. There were lots of army personnel all the way through. The waters here were just freezing, it was as if its coming out of a glacier, no wonder it did, as this is the last of the prayag and its highest point. Apparently the sacred shrine of Bardinath is just 25 kms from here, but was anyway closed as it was snowing heavily. Close to noon we decided to bid farewell to Joshimath, for me it was with a heavy heart. We had a light meal and boarded to bus to Karnaprayag, as we did a lot of debating whether should we spend some Nandprayag as well, however had to cut that out in fear of time and connecting vehicles inorder for us to reach the desired destination for the day. We did however see Nandprayag from the bus as it’s the only Prayag which does not have any temple at the merging point of rivers. Once again we were lucky enough to get a proper Govt bus from Karnaprayag to Devprayag which is the first of the Prayags, for sure the bus was far comfortable and spacious than the rest.
Somehow we were at Devprayag, earlier than anticipated, though we were caught in traffic jams in most of the places. The GMVN guest house is somewhere far away from the so called town and once again we were lucky enough to get down nearer to that place. To out astonishment found no one out there and caught couple of boys playing cricket who helped us in finding the manager. Soon we were given a room, which is not the best we had through the entire trip, nevertheless was satisfactory. After a short break, at around 6pm we set off to explore. To our amazement there were no proper directions or roads leading to the Prayag or the river, though we did manage it somehow. As also the age old temple which Rama has visited on his trip from Lanka. Walking for over an hour we reached the bus stand as that seemed the only place where we can get some food. Again most of it was closed, as they generally close by 7pm as no one visits post that. They were kind of to accommodate us for the roti and dal, another lesson learnt here. Not to assume the opening / closing hours of anything ! Post dinner we were fluky to get a hitch hike in a van till the guest house, else if would have been a 45 min to hour long walk, that too sans no light. We soon crashed in as our bodies could take no more.
Day 6 - Feb 1
At half past 8, we walked straight to the mandir and the prayag. As expected there was none out there, but we did pay around 100 rs for the Pandas there, we didn’t any such kind anywhere. Lucky to get away J. Spending a considerable time there, we had stuffed parathas for breakfast. One of the best one can ever have. They were also explaining about the place and how much ganga used to flow at times of monsoon. We were at awe thinking about the force of water. Closer to noon, we bid adieu there and caught a bus to Haridwar our destination from where our over night train was to Delhi.
We reached without much hassles, as we were now familiar with the place and location. We spent a considerable time at the Railway station, the one place where we can spend as much time without being questioned; nevertheless the waiting rooms are all packed. Close to evening, we walked out for the usual stroll with the baggage in the cloak room. We are on dot for the evening Ganga aarti, the crowd was slowly escalating, but managed to get the seat in the first steps with our feet in the Ganges. It was a marvel from there on for about 40 minutes, the aarti and the music taking over the entire place, is a real treat to watch. Now to answer the tummy, there are various eatables out here, some kind of patties, masala fruit chat, chaat items, noodles etc. Don’t miss these and all this are on road side. Post the multi dinner session, it was our turn to wait at the railway station which was at midnight. In shivering cold we did manage somehow but the shock came later on as most of the passengers on the compartment had a proper blanket or rajai and we were in the II sleeper. With the cold wind we did struggle through the night but was bared somehow. I pity my friend who had to take the wrath as he was in devoid of even a proper jacket or blanket. With people talking in as many languages I try to drift down to sleep.
Day 7 - Feb 2
Our final day of the eventful journey, we landed on time or even early I should at the Hazrat Nazamuddin. First thing to do was to have a hot coffee to save our self. We checked out the rooms at the railway station which seemed nominal and spacious for a night as we were going to stay for less than 10 hours. We got a nice room and got freshed up after a short nap. Our walk started soon afterwards, heading to the nearby metro station for a one day trip card. We visited Jama masjid (from outside), Connought place where we had a sumptuous lunch at haldirams and had the most delightful pan – a Strawberry and Chocolate pan. They were unexplainable to say the least. It was then going around a few places here and there and finally a visit to the Red Fort and around. We did manage to see some museum out there and decided against doing anything out of ordinary as the Delhi traffic cannot be under estimated. The problem starts here, this was the time when the Metro to airport was still not commissioned, so we had to take a detour for metro or to take a taxi. My friends adviced me to take the latter. The railway station taxi fellows no wonder are the same through out India, they charge exorbitant rates and no meters please. This is exactly what happened though there was police out there. They asked for about 400 Rs and we said T3 – Terminal 3, they hiked the prices. Gutted we walked out of the place and generally the autos don’t come far off places. After roaming around for over 30 minutes and asking as many autos, we had to give up and decided to go to the same taxi fellow at the railway station. Just the stroke of luck, a auto fellow accepted for around 300 Rs and we were happy not for the price but the thought of not going back to the taxis. In around 45 minutes we were at the Airport. Well the T3 is an amazing terminal ,I can only pray that it stays the same way through out. The flight was on time and in retrospect it was a wonderful journey. This will be one of the lively moments in my entire life. A trip worth revisiting, probably the Char dham yatra to top it with.
Ganga, I will meet you again !!
Note: a. Pre-paid taxi drivers in Delhi tend to cheat and ensure that you don't pay for baggage or tolls
b. It's better to stop for a shorter duration in Haridwar since Hari-ka-Pauri/Masa devi/Chandini devi are the only places of interest. The aarti is of utmost interest.
c. Try to head to highest point as quickly as possible, since the mountain is weathering away and landslides/road works are a common sight. Never underestimate the travel time.
d. Feb is the lean season and temperatures can go as low as 3 deg C at higher altitudes. Since 98% of rooms would not have a heater, proper winter clothing is a must. Multiple layer of clothing always keeps your body insulated from the cold. Better travel during this period to save from the crowd.
e. Most of the places located in mountains shut by 6.30PM and you will not be able to travel by local transport or even food after that
f. Haridwar, Rishikesh are in the plains and trip along the mountains to Auli/Prayags is possible only via Private mini buses/Maxi jeep/Hired cars. We heard that the govt. buses are operated at a better frequency only during the peak season
g. Additional guide for Uttarakhand - http://www.scribd.com/doc/48200574/Uttarakhand-Travel-Guide
h. Eat light before you travel in the mountains and keep nuts handy in long travel
i. Don’t pay much heed to people, in Haridwar or anywhere, who claim to be owners of ganga and literally demand money to clean it.
j. Careful with your camera. Most of the location are scenic, better enjoy with your eyes first.
k. Try to plan less and act more, be ready to alter your plans if required. Make sure you get the bus timings prior to your travel as there are no other ways out.
All the Best !
